Watchmaker's tools

I bought a kit to get started but I've upgraded much of it. I've mostly been working on 1960-80s manuals and automatics with a central seconds hand. And I'm a leather strap kind of person so not much work with bracelets.

There are endless tools that can streamline your workflow, so I've listed them in order so you can add as you progress. And tools can be resold quite easily if you've gone far enough to scratch the itch. The rabbit hole goes deep!

Inspection

  • Eyeglass, Black No. 3.5 = 2.8x (Bergeon 4422-3.5)
  • Selvyt Medium (PR) Cloth, White

Maintenance

  • Spring bar tool (kit)
  • Polywatch (cleaning acrylic crystals)
  • Pin pusher (adjusting bracelets)
  • Bergeon 2290 Polishing Buff

Exploratory

  • Squishy ball case back remover
  • Case knife (pen knife) (kit)
  • Case knife (oyster shucker style) (kit)
  • Rodico Premium (Bergeon 7033-1)
  • Eyeglass, Black No. 2.5 = 4x (Bergeon 4422-2.5)
  • AF 176.530.24 Headband Eyeglass Holder

Repair

  • Materials box / cloche
  • Movement holder
  • Bergeon 30080 screwdriver with blades (white 0.6mm)
  • Bergeon 30080 screwdrivers with Blades (yellow 0.8mm)
  • Bergeon 30080 Screwdrivers with Blades (red 1.2mm)
  • Screwdriver Ø1.60mm Bergeon 30080-H - HS1416 (HS1416)
  • Dial protector
  • Bergeon hand levers (£40!)
  • Hand levers (cheap eBay)
  • Bergeon 7404-2 hand pusher (red 0.8mm / grey 1.5mm) -- haven't needed any other size so far!
  • Crown pinion remover (can be very expensive for such a specific tool)
  • #2 tweezers
  • Plastic pointy stick / peg wood
  • Barrel press (cheap) £5
  • Case Cushion Watch Black Gel Ø75mm Bergeon 5395-75-N - HC5395-75-N (HC5395-75-N)

Servicing

Servicing usually goes hand-in-hand with the strip-down and repair but it can also start to become quite expensive; not only in the machines but consumables that you probably can't sell on quite as easily.

Degreaser

  • Lighter fluid (readily available from a newsagent £2.99)
  • Renata essence £8

Lubrication

A very complicated business but basically you need a light oil for the quick moving parts (jewels) and a heavier oil for the metal-on-metal parts. You can even go for a grease on the heavy friction components (keyless works).

  • Moebius 9010 for jewels
  • Dropper red (fine)
  • Moebius 9501 grease for high friction parts
  • Dropper green (large)

See the Moebius lubrication table.

Tutorials

Stores


Bought but not really used

  • Bergeon crystal pen
  • Bergeon case knife -- slightly unwhelmed by this!

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